Hydrodynamic Modelling and Morphometric Assessment of Supratidal Boulder Transport on the Moroccan Atlantic Coast: A Dual-Site Analysis
Asma Gharnate, Rónadh Cox, Hatim Sanad, Omar Taouali, Majda Oueld Lhaj, Nadia Mhammdi
Abstract
Coastal boulder deposits (CBDs) are important geomorphic indicators of extreme wave activity, yet integrated morphometric and hydrodynamic analyses remain limited along the Moroccan Atlantic coast. This study characterizes the morphology, spatial distribution, and transport thresholds of supratidal boulders at Oued Cherrat and Mansouria, and quantifies the wave energy required for their mobilization. Between 2021 and 2025, 85 boulders were surveyed, supported by lithological analyses, GPS mapping, and pre-/post-storm photographic documentation. At Oued Cherrat, boulders ranged from 0.01 to 3.56 m3 (≤7.84 t), with solitary blocks located 30–94 m inland and larger imbricated clasts up to 150.5 m. At Mansouria, dimensions reached 22 × 20 × 3.5 m (>2032 t), positioned 5–140 m from the shoreline. Storms in January and March 2025 displaced boulders up to 4.5 m at Oued Cherrat (e.g., 6.39 t) and up to 3 m at Mansouria (e.g., 21.42 t), with new blocks deposited and megaboulders showing slight in situ rotations. Hydrodynamic modelling estimated sliding thresholds of 1.1–4.0 m/s at Oued Cherrat and 2.7–11.0 m/s at Mansouria, while rolling thresholds reached 18.23 m/s. These values confirm the dependence of transport on boulder mass, imbrications, and topography. The findings demonstrate that extreme storms can rapidly reorganize multi-tonne CBDs, while the largest megaboulders require rare, exceptionally high-energy events.