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Variability of distributions of wave set-up heights along a shoreline with complicated geometry

Tarmo Soomere, Katri Pindsoo, N. A. Kudryavtseva, Maris Eelsalu

2020Ocean science22 citationsDOIOpen Access PDF

Abstract

Abstract. The phenomenon of wave set-up may substantially contribute to the formation of devastating coastal flooding in certain coastal areas. We study the appearance and properties of empirical probability density distributions of the occurrence of different set-up heights on an approximately 80 km long section of coastline near Tallinn in the Gulf of Finland, eastern Baltic Sea. The study area is often attacked by high waves propagating from various directions, and the typical approach angle of high waves varies considerably along the shore. The distributions in question are approximated by an exponential distribution with a quadratic polynomial as the exponent. Even though different segments of the study area have substantially different wave regimes, the leading term of this polynomial is usually small (between −0.005 and 0.005) and varies insignificantly along the study area. Consequently, the distribution of wave set-up heights substantially deviates from a Rayleigh or Weibull distribution (that usually reflect the distribution of different wave heights). In about three-quarters of the occasions, it is fairly well approximated by a standard exponential distribution. In about 25 % of the coastal segments, it qualitatively matches a Wald (inverse Gaussian) distribution. The Kolmogorov–Smirnov test (D value) indicates that the inverse Gaussian distribution systematically better matches the empirical probability distributions of set-up heights than the Weibull, exponential, or Gaussian distributions.

Topics & Concepts

Weibull distributionInverse Gaussian distributionExponential functionGaussianShoreWave heightInverse distributionRayleigh distributionProbability distributionProbability density functionGeometryGeologyMathematicsDistribution (mathematics)PhysicsMathematical analysisStatisticsHeavy-tailed distributionOceanographyQuantum mechanicsCoastal and Marine DynamicsOcean Waves and Remote SensingTropical and Extratropical Cyclones Research