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Wave–bottom interaction and extreme wave statistics due to shoaling and de-shoaling of irregular long-crested wave trains over steep seabed changes

Jie Zhang, Michel Benoît

2021Journal of Fluid Mechanics76 citationsDOI

Abstract

Abstract

Topics & Concepts

Shoaling and schoolingSeabedWave shoalingGeologyOceanographyWave heightWave propagationPhysicsMechanical waveLongitudinal waveOpticsOcean Waves and Remote SensingCoastal and Marine DynamicsArctic and Antarctic ice dynamics
Wave–bottom interaction and extreme wave statistics due to shoaling and de-shoaling of irregular long-crested wave trains over steep seabed changes | Litcius