Combining sensory and texturometer parameters to characterize different type of cosmetic ingredients
Gisely Spósito Vieira, Marc Lavarde, Vianney Fréville, Pedro Alves da Rocha‐Filho, Anne‐Marie Pensé‐Lhéritier
Abstract
INTRODUCTION: Sensory properties have a great importance for cosmetics and personal care products. If literature permits to consult articles comparing different formulations on their sensory attributes, there are only a few articles concerning ingredients. OBJECTIVE: The overall objective of this study was to carry out an original study combining the sensory evaluation of different natures of ingredients, in order to initiate a sensory data set that could help researchers to identify differentiating sensory characteristics, as well as initiating a comparison between sensory data and texturometer instrumental measurements. METHODS: Oils, glycolic extracts, butter and starch were evaluated according to descriptive sensory analysis methodology with the help of panel of 25 experts. In order to compare responses obtained from the panel to instrumental measurements, texture analyzes were performed in compression traction model. RESULTS: Significant differences were detected in ten of the eleven evaluated sensory attributes, indicating that ingredients have distinct sensory profiles. The mainly discriminative attributes for the analyzed ingredients were: gloss, opacity, fluidity, freshness, whitening and oily residue. The oils are mostly related to oily residue and slipperiness while extracts are mostly related to gloss, fluidity and freshness attributes. Both Tapioca Starch and Shea Butter were related to non-fluidity, opacity, and Tapioca Starch was related to freshness too. This study was completed by a texturometer analysis which lead to show the opposite correlation between the sensory attribute fluidity and the consistent index.