Cosmetic Potential of Pigments Extracts from the Marine Cyanobacterium Cyanobium sp.
Fernando Pagels, Cíntia Almeida, Vı́tor Vasconcelos, A. Catarina Guedes
Abstract
The current mindset in the cosmetics market about sustainable ingredients had increased the search for new sources of natural active ingredients. Cyanobacteria are a great source of functional ingredients for cosmetics, as a producer of pigments with described bioactive potential (carotenoids and phycobiliproteins). This work aimed to evaluate the cosmetic potential of marine cyanobacterium Cyanobium sp. pigment-targeted extracts (carotenoids and phycobiliproteins), evaluating their in vitro safety through cytotoxicity assays, cosmetic-related enzyme inhibition, ingredient stability, and putative product (serum formulation). Results showed no cytotoxicity from the extracts in skin-related cell lines. Carotenoid extract showed anti-hyaluronidase capacity (IC50 = 108.74 ± 5.74 mg mL−1) and phycobiliprotein extract showed anti-hyaluronidase and anti-collagenase capacity (IC50 = 67.25 ± 1.18 and 582.82 ± 56.99 mg mL−1, respectively). Regarding ingredient and serum stability, both ingredients showed higher stability at low-temperature conditions, and it was possible to maintain the pigment content and bioactive capacity stable during the tested period, although in higher temperatures the product was degraded in a week. As a major conclusion, both extracts can be potential natural and sustainable ingredients for cosmetic uses, with relatively simple formulation and storage, and can be promising natural anti-aging ingredients due to their bioactive capacity.