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Ocean Wave Forecasting With Deep Learning as Alternative to Conventional Models

Z. W. Zhang, Huaming Yu, Danqin Ren, Chenyu Zhang, Minghua Sun, Xin Qi

2025Journal of Advances in Modeling Earth Systems5 citationsDOIOpen Access PDF

Abstract

Abstract This study presents OceanCastNet (OCN), a machine learning approach for wave forecasting that incorporates wind and wave fields to predict significant wave height, mean wave period, and mean wave direction. We evaluate OCN's performance against the operational ECWAM model using two independent data sets: NDBC buoy and Jason‐3 satellite observations. NDBC station validation indicates OCN performs better at 24 stations compared to ECWAM's 10 stations, and Jason‐3 satellite validation confirms similar accuracy across 228‐hr forecasts. OCN successfully captures wave patterns during extreme weather conditions, demonstrated through Typhoon Goni with prediction errors typically within 0.5 m. The approach also offers computational efficiency advantages. The results suggest that machine learning approaches can achieve performance comparable to conventional wave forecasting systems for operational wave prediction applications.

Topics & Concepts

TyphoonBuoySignificant wave heightWind waveSatelliteMeteorologyWave heightWave modelComputer scienceWind speedExtreme learning machineDeep learningWeather forecastingRemote sensingArtificial intelligenceWind wave modelEnvironmental sciencePredictive modellingTropical cycloneMachine learningSurface waveArtificial neural networkAutoencoderProbabilistic forecastingAtmospheric modelTraining setNumerical weather predictionTropical cyclone forecast modelOcean Waves and Remote SensingOceanographic and Atmospheric ProcessesHydrological Forecasting Using AI
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