The importance of explicitly modelling sea-swell waves for runup on reef-lined coasts
Ellen Quataert, Curt D. Storlazzi, Ap van Dongeren, Robert McCall
Topics & Concepts
SwellGeologyWave heightReefWave tankWind waveSignificant wave heightForcing (mathematics)Waves and shallow waterWave modelMeteorologyOceanographyClimatologyPhysicsCoastal and Marine DynamicsTropical and Extratropical Cyclones ResearchOcean Waves and Remote Sensing