Multi-Active Cosmeceutical Formulations: Stability, Sensory Performance, and Skin Tolerability
Magdalena Bîrsan, Ecaterina Gore, Șadiye-Ioana Scripcariu, Robert-Alexandru Vlad, Paula Antonoaea, Cezara Pintea, Andrada Pintea, Cornelia-Titiana Cotoi, Alin-Viorel Focșa, Adriana Ciurba
Abstract
Cosmeceutical systems represent next-generation topical platforms designed to deliver bioactive molecules with therapeutic potential directly to the skin. This study evaluated four anti-wrinkle formulations (three creams and one emulgel) in terms of their stability, sensory characteristics, acceptability, and skin tolerance. The products incorporated a unique combination of active ingredients, including N-acetylcysteine, arginine HCl, Blainvillea camellia flower extract, tocopherol, and hyaluronic acid. For the cream formulations (EG01–EG03), different emulsifiers were employed, while EG04 was developed as an emulgel. Stability testing revealed that only three out of four formulations remained physically stable, with EG04 showing phase separation. Sensory analysis assessed parameters such as spreading, absorption, shininess, stickiness, greasiness, and smoothness, with results illustrated using a radar plot. EG01 and EG03 displayed similar sensory profiles, differing mainly in shininess and greasiness, while both exhibited high smoothness. In vivo testing was conducted on female human volunteers aged 50–65 years (Fitzpatrick skin types II–IV) to evaluate tolerance and acceptability. Only EG01 and EG03, formulated with methyl glucose sesquistearate and polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, respectively, demonstrated both superior sensory performance and 100% acceptability and tolerance in clinical assessment.