Litcius/Paper detail

Extreme Wave Statistics in Combined and Partitioned Windsea and Swell

Susanne Støle-Hentschel, Karsten Trulsen, José Carlos Nieto Borge, Shkurte Olluri

2020Water Waves22 citationsDOIOpen Access PDF

Abstract

Abstract We investigate how the extreme wave statistics of a combined windsea and swell appears to be different from the extreme wave statistics of the corresponding windsea and swell partitions. We consider the situation of following long-crested windsea and swell in laboratory experiments and in simulations using a high-order spectral method (HOSM). We also consider the situation of short-crested windsea and swell crossing at nearly right angle, corresponding to the sea state when the Prestige accident happened, in hindcast simulations combined with HOSM. For cases when the two wave systems do not interact much, the combined wave system appears to be more Gaussian than the corresponding partitioned wave systems, consistent with the central limit theorem. This result is found for kurtosis and exceedance probability of envelope and crest height.

Topics & Concepts

SwellKurtosisEnvelope (radar)CrestGaussianRogue waveStatisticsHigher-order statisticsHindcastExtreme value theorySkewnessMathematicsPhysicsStatistical physicsMeteorologyComputer scienceNonlinear systemTelecommunicationsOpticsQuantum mechanicsThermodynamicsSignal processingRadarOcean Waves and Remote SensingCoastal and Marine DynamicsTropical and Extratropical Cyclones Research